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THE ESSEX WAY Frances is describing their walk along the Essex Way which runs from Epping to Harwich.
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Part 4 - BRADFIELD TO LAWFORD WE left the remains of the ambitious, unfinished Mistley to Walton railway line and continued on our way, following the path through fields to where it meets the road on the bend at Mistley Heath. |
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It was a fine morning, cold but fresh. A flock of rooks soared, swooped and cawed noisily as they busily found twigs for their new nests. This was the beginning of new life whereas below them were the remains of what was St Mary’s church. The low, red brick wall that surrounds the site protects only the sheep that now graze on this desecrated land. Nothing is left of the church bar a few bricks and overturned gravestones.
The infamous Witchfinder General, Matthew Hopkins, is said to be buried in the grounds here, but there is nothing to register this. Perhaps a fitting end to this piece of our history. One wonders when and why this church was demolished? A sad feeling pervades. Whether it was the shame apportioned to the demolition of a redundant church or something more sinister I do not know.
Moving on and following the footpath past Church Farm, we made strides along the hedgerow to the thickly wooded Furze Hill. A pretty area well used by local walkers, their dogs and children on mountain bikes. We chose one of the fallen trees by the lake, which was being overtaken by grasses, as a suitable seat on which to sit to enjoy our refreshments. It was good to take the time to appreciate the wild flowers, pushing to make their appearance and to hear the birdsong, despite not being able to distinguish to which species it was associated.
Walking on through the wood, we noticed several derelict overgrown concrete bunkers. This area, quite obviously, had been used in the past by the military. Continuing on through the woods, crossing an earth bridge and many stiles, we alighted onto the main Manningtree to Harwich road by following the trail through the old, now automated, but still used, EDME Maltings at Mistley. (EDME being the acronym for English Diastatic Malt Extracts).
Passing Mistley railway station, the route follows down the hill, passing Adam’s swan basin, the Thorn Hotel, which is said to be haunted, and Mistley Quay. You cannot help but reflect on the way things may have been in this community and get a glimpse at a variety of life-styles, bustling and thriving on industries generated between the sea, the river, the maltings and the railway. The quay once built and launched ships, steamers and barges but now accommodates small craft workshops. The warehouses, with views probably unchanged for several hundred years across the Stour to Suffolk, are now converted to luxury flats. Time and tide and all that!
We walk on down towards Manningtre, passing the impressive Mistley Towers, the twin columns which are the remains of what was a Robert Adam’s grand church. Mistley Place Park which is an animal sanctuary and along the popular grassy stretch by the river. Here the numerous, demanding swans overshadow the many wading birds. Manningtree is said to be one of the smallest parishes in the country and passing the docks, the quaint backstreets, the interesting shops and the pretty cottages confirmed the statement that good things come in small packages. Moving on from Manningtree the path takes an unusually undulating route. We gradually descended into the deep green valley, slightly buoyant due the overflow from the rushing stream at the valley base. Crossing the bridge we made our way steadily uphill, sharing the field with ewes and their young. We watched as the Iambs appeared to play whilst their mothers, bleating at them, tried to keep them in check!
Standing at the peak of the hill was Lawford church. It looked an attractive church but as a christening service was being conducted, we were not able to explore! Instead we stood and gazed back across the valley to the glistening water of the Stour. A peaceful end to our day’s walk.
Frances White (Lawford is a particularly fine church and well worth a visit. Ed)
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